Watch Review: Omega Railmaster
The three-hander. Hour. Minute. Second. A classic watch type meant for every robust collection. Three-handers are defined by their simplicity and legibility. Its a no frills watch that ought to work with just about any look.
The Rolex Explorer I remains the undisputed king of the category with its iconic design. The mix of Arabic numerals and indices, that rich black dial, that perfectly sculpted steel case — together they make it a difficult watch to get at retail for good reason. Yet for those of us willing to look beyond Rolex for our fix, Omega offers its own take on the austere three-hander with an offering that, when solely judged as a watch and not an investment, blows the Explorer I out of the water.
That final qualification is key because if your priority is a watch that will serve as a flex or make you a nice profit years down the road, then the Explorer I is the better pick, even at grey market prices. However if your goal is a durable, quality, classic timepiece — the Omega Railmaster outclasses Rolex on at least four points:
1. Let’s start with something subjective: The design. To me the Railmaster is the more handsome watch. I say this in large part because to me it more looks like a proper classic tool watch. I love that there is less text on the dial and four Arabic numerals instead of three. I love that the case features more brushed finishing, particularly on the sides. I love the muted matte finishing on the dial. I love the touch of personality on the case back — that graphic and textured finish. I love the creamy brown coloring on the indices and the railroad track circling the markers. All of these design points combine to give the Railmaster a look that is both sober and unique. You get a watch that marches to the beat of its own drum while also looking amazing.
2. The Railmaster is pound for pound the more durable and better performing watch. Where the Explorer gives you 100M of water resistance the Railmaster gives 150M. Where the Explorer has a 48 hour power reserve the Railmaster has 55. The Railmaster, like all Omega sports watches, is tested using the higher METAS standard, meaning you can have higher confidence about the movement’s resilience and long-term accuracy. Finally the Railmaster is far more antimagnetic with its 15000 gauss rating (15x even Rolex’s flagship antimagnetic watch the Milgauss). If objective performance metrics are your priority, there are few three-handers that can stand toe-to-toe with Omega.
3. Multiple color and strap options. It’s neat that you can get the Railmaster in a denim blue dial if that’s more your vibe. It’s even neater that there are canvas strap options. To me a straightforward workhorse watch like this makes more sense on a strap. It’s a simpler more low-key look that you don’t have to worry about scratching or pinching your arm hairs.
4. Far better purchasing experience. For less than half the price you’ll have your pick of dial and bracelet options at an official Omega AD. No waitlists, no “build a relationship” nonsense, no months or years of uncertainty — just walk in with your money and walk out with the watch. No nonsense, just as a three-hander is meant to be.
It may be that, being blessed enough to own other Rolex watches, the Explorer I is not as alluring to me. When deciding on my ideal three-hander I was looking more for a work watch than a “do it all” watch. I wear my Railmaster mostly when I am alone and heads down at my computer. This is one reason I prefer the strap as bracelet watches often get scuffed during long hours of typing. The black dial black strap Railmaster works great as a ‘fly-under-the-radar’ watch with my fashion since I tend to wear mostly black and white clothes. That is just how I like it.
The Explorer might arguably be better for a “one watch collection” type of deal. However for my money the Railmaster is the superior tool. It is better engineered, better performing, and more looks the part with its design. For the enthusiast, there is simply no better three-hander on the market.
