Watch Review: Grand Seiko Snowflake
My review of the Omega Railmaster took the approach of an extended comparison to the Rolex Explorer I. While I don’t think all watch reviews need to employ Rolex as the standard-bearer, I found that particular lens helpful in relating the appeal of Omega’s offering. Hence we employ a similar tactic here with the Grand Seiko SBGA211, aka, the “Snowflake.” It is an exquisite timepiece that for my money represents the ultimate version of the Datejust.
The Datejust has long been the classic “bread and butter” Rolex — a watch loved for its simplicity, versatility, and timeless design. The Snowflake does everything the Datejust does and then some. How exactly does the Snowflake outclass the Datejust? Let me count the ways:
- The design is far more striking both up close and at a distance. Up close you have that one of a kind dial giving the watch its name. It artfully captures the feeling of snow beautifully contrasted by silver markers and that rich blue sweeping second hand. At a distance you can appreciate the sensual case shape and lovely bracelet with its mix of polished and brushed finishing. The Datejust is an attractive watch but the Snowflake is simply stunning. The display case back is the cherry on top as it lets you admire the beautifully finished movement.
- Speaking of finishing, the Snowflake is a tier above not only Rolex but all other luxury Swiss brands in the same price bracket. Look up some macro shots on YouTube if you don’t believe me. The zaratsu polishing technique is not a meme. This watch is immaculate. From the bracelet flanks to the case edges — every single surface has been painstakingly sculpted to perfection. Only at the Patek/Vacheron/Lange level have I seen better.
- In terms of performance the Snowflake is the better watch by several measures. Even as a relatively older springdrive watch it still boasts far superior tech to Rolex’s automatic Datejust movement. The Snowflake is more accurate, has a superior power reserve, and includes a power indicator. The perfectly continuous sweep of the second hand is a conversation piece feature you will not see on many other watches. Furthermore the Snowflake boasts a titanium case and bracelet for lighter weight and greater scratch resistance.
- The price and purchase experience are definitely much nicer than Rolex. At retail, the Snowflake is over $2000 cheaper than a 41mm Datejust. Go secondhand and you can save another couple thousand. If you want to buy new from an authorized dealer, expect to have it same day or within a week. Meanwhile you’ll be lucky if a Rolex AD sells you a men’s size Datejust within several months to a year. Don’t feel like waiting? The grey market will accommodate you at 100% markup. Happy hunting.
All of this is not to say that the Snowflake is perfect. It does fall short in a few areas. Firstly, the bracelet is not great in terms of comfort and usability. The lack of micro-adjust is frustrating and it is just not nearly as comfortable on the wrist as a Rolex oyster bracelet. On top of that, the power indicator on the dial isn’t for everyone. I would prefer if it had been put on the back of the watch to keep the dial less cluttered.
The Snowflake is also not nearly as good as an investment or “flex.” The same point I made about the Explorer I and Railmaster applies here. You buy a Datejust today and years from now you’ll likely be able to sell it for more than you paid for it. That’s a huge draw for lots of people, understandably. And when it comes to flashing status that little crown and ‘Rolex’ logo are unbeatable.
From where I stand, the Snowflake is the better watch to wear. It’s marvelous as a dress watch but is durable enough to wear daily if that’s your speed. It might not appreciate as much or impress as many girls, but it will serve as a better watch. It is a gorgeous timepiece employing a unique technology and the best of Japanese craftsmanship. Watch nerds have sang its praises for years for good reason.
